The Blanshard Needle, South Face

A brief history and photo essay

Kat spent her childhood years walking to school in Port Coquitlam. Each day she would cross the bridge over the massive CP Rail yard. Above all the noise of the bustling industry stood the Blanshard Needle. Kat looked towards the Blanshard Needle with curiosity five days a week from kindergarten to twelfth grade. In BC, there are many peaks with "needle" in the name, perhaps the most impressive being the Burkett Needle on the Stikine Icecap. The Blanshard Needle is certainly a far cry from the Burkett Needle; however, what it lacks in elevation, beautiful granite, and overall grandeur, it makes up for in classic North Shore ruggedness. The Blanshard Needle is a true "mountaineer's peak" with no straightforward access to its small summit. On a warm day in late September, Kat and I decided to head south to Golden Ears Park for an ascent of her childhood horizon dream.

The first ascent of the Blanshard Needle was made in 1918 by P. James, D. Munday, and M. Worsley, likely via the South Face (standard route), Culbert 3rd Class, also known as modern-day 5.6. The first winter ascent was completed soon after by a large group in March of 1923. There are several other ways to access the summit of Blanshard Peak. The Northwest Ridge provides passage at around 4th class, FA by G. Fraser and crew. That said, the approach from Evans Creek is more challenging without a trail and up a steep system of gullies. The West Face is the most technical, with around 10 pitches of 5.6, with few options for protection and complicated route finding. A more recent report from 2005 states that the rock quality is generally compact. However, I would take that with a grain of salt. The West Face was climbed by J. Archer and B. Moorhead in 1973.

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Blanshard Needle hand drawn topo from original Culbert guidebook.

Iconic image of Margaret Worsley and Don Munday on summit of Mount Blanchard, first ascent

A party of five climbs the crux. Historical photo from 1918-1920.

Impressive old growth on the way up towards Alouette Mountain

Looking towards our objective from the summit of Alouette Mountain. Edge Peak South Face on the right.

After some mild bushwhacking here I am. Pulling a light rope up the Culbert 3rd Class to give Kat a belay.

Kat enjoying the position.

Surmounting one of the many 4th class steps along the South Face.

Kat cruising along with distant wildfire smoke.

Kat eyeing up her next move across an airy gap below the Southeast sub-summit. This gap provides a brief view into the impressive and likely unclimbed North Face.

Kat just below the summit. If it were not for the smoke we would see the bridge Kat walked across on her way to Kindergarten.

A summit self portrait with my love. Golden Ears Left, Edge Peak Right.

The impressive South Face of Edge Peak. Define Sub-Alpinisim.

Looking off toward Robie Reid and Judge Howay

Making a rather unnecessary ascent of the East sub-summit on our descent.

We decided to try a shortcut on our return by heading directly up to Alouette from the Col. While it was certainly more direct be prepared for significant krumholt thrashing...

Back into the peaceful old growth groves of Alouette Mountain. Thank you Kat for a wonderful day and motivating me to explore the Blanshard Massif (Golden Ears) in more detail. Perhaps I will return next summer for an ascent of the coveted East summit of Edge Peak!

Stats

• Distance: 11.5km

• Elevation Gain: 1770

• Duration: 6:04

• GPX:

Blanshard Needle.GPX

Download GPX • 2.92MB